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By Getachew Metaferia
A synopsis. Dr. Getachew Metaferia, from the Department
of Political Science and International Studies, Morgan State University,
participated in a Fulbright-Hayes seminar in Thailand and Burma (Myanmar)
from June 10 to July 13, 2002. This seminar for faculty from Minority
Serving Institutions was organized by the Center for Southeast Asian
Studies (CSEAS) at the University of Hawaii. Prior to his departure
for Bangkok, Thailand and Yangoon, Myanmar, Dr. Metaferia participated
in a pre-departure workshop at the University of Hawaii, Honolulu campus
from June 9-15, 2002. Other participants from Morgan State University
were Drs. Pierre Rogers and Patricia Wells, from the Department of Communications
and English respectively.
A brief note on Thailand and Myanmar
Both Thailand and Myanmar are located in Southeast Asia and are deeply
rooted in the Buddhist culture and tradition. Thailand is economically
developed and has a thriving middle class. Myanmar, on the other hand,
is not economically developed but has a potential for development given
a conducive political environment.
Thailand: some facts and historical background. Thailand has
a population of about 60 million and 10 percent of the population resides
in Bangkok, the capital and largest city in Thailand. The glittering
city of Bangkok is the administrative, cultural and commercial hub.
It boasts two thousand colorful temples. The Emperor's Grand Palace
houses the Temple of the Emerald Buddha and covers over fifty acres.
It has chapels, palaces, royal reception halls, and pagodas. The statues
of the Buddha are decorated with gold leaf and glittering colored glass
mosaics. About 95 percent of Thais belong to Theravada Buddhists, an
early form of Buddhism. The royal family no longer lives at the Grand
Palace and the buildings are used as offices and reception halls as
when President Clinton visited Thailand. An interesting feature of Bangkok
is its Floating Market. One can purchase fresh fruits, vegetables, clothes
and artifacts on boats.
See Picture #1 (PPT page 9)
Buddhist Pagoda in Bangkok |
See Picture #2 (PPT page 16)
Pagodas in Bangkok |
Thailand shares common borders with Myanmar, Laos, Cambodia, and Malaysia.
The kingdom of Thailand is a constitutional monarchy. It has a Prime
Minister and a parliament with two legislative houses. Members of the
Lower House are elected; members of the Upper House are appointed.
The Fulbright seminar participants visited important historical and
religious sites, in addition to the Temple of the Emerald Buddha in
Bangkok and the cradle of Thai civilization, the city of Sukhothai.
Sukhothai was the first important Thai kingdom and flourished in the
13th and 14th centuries. In addition, the 14th century commercial city
of Ayutthaya, which was the old capital of Siam, was visited. The king
of Ayutthaya became the first king to receive a Portuguese mission in
1511. In order to counterbalance the Portuguese influence, the king
of Ayutthaya, sent his delegation to the Netherlands (the Dutch) in
1608. Thus, Thailand maintained its political independence by playing
one European power against another. It remained the only independent
nation in Southeast Asia.
Our visit to Chiang Mai took us to an elephant show. The elephants
are trained to dance, "play" soccer, and paint on canvas and
pile logs of teak as they historically did in building Thailand.
See Picture #3 (PPT page 22)
Elephants are shown demonstrating their painting skill
The current political and economic conditions. Leaving the rich historical
and cultural legacy aside, one will face the current economic reality
in Thailand. In Bangkok, one cannot help but notice the result of the
Asian economic "spurt" of the early 1990s. It was here in
Thailand that the Asian economic crisis started to unravel. Several
high-rise buildings, offices and shopping centers stand unfinished the
result of the economic crisis that took investors and speculators by
surprise. This could be an example of globalization at its worst: the
economic crisis in Thailand had a rippling impact and affected other
Asian countries as well. Thailand and other global south countries that
faced similar economic conditions in the early 1990s are now struggling
to overcome economic crisis, fight unemployment, crime, corruption,
and dwindling public services in the areas of health and education,
among others. This is in addition to the rise in HIV/AIDS pandemic that
countries, including Thailand, are grappling with.
Even though the program under which we visited Thailand did not give
us time to talk to the educators and administrators to learn about the
education policies of the country, we did see evidence of Thailand's
efforts to develop its human resources through education. At Thammasat
University we observed up-to-date equipment and lecture facilities,
not necessarily indicative of sound educational policy or the delivery
of quality and relevant education, but at the least demonstrating a
relatively high level of development. Another positive example of respect
and enthusiasm for education was a group of uniformed young children
hopping on their improvised school buses and heading towards their respective
schools.
See Picture #4 (PPT page 20 bottom right)
Young school children being bused to schools
Bangkok, a city of 10 million souls, is congested with motor traffic
emitting pollutants, especially scooters that operate on diesel fuels.
The unhealthy environment and the overall contribution to the depletion
of the ozone layer and the resulting ecological imbalance are immeasurable.
Bangkok, similar to other "megacities" of the global south
countries, like Mexico City and New Delhi, needs to take the necessary
measures to reduce pollution and urban congestion, and to protect the
health of its citizens. The continuos rural-urban migration of the youth
seeking employment in the service industries has contributed to the
population growth of Bangkok and to its social malaise. As the young
depart the villages, fewer hands are left to work on the rice paddies.
It seems that Osama bin Laden has some followers in Bangkok. T-shirts
in shops with his pictures and some sport shirts bearing his image are
not uncommon. The fact that in an overwhelmingly Buddhist society, he
has some fans is interesting to note. I did not get a chance to inquire
if this was an exhibition of support for bin Laden's heinous act, or
dissatisfaction with US foreign policy, or both. Recently, hundreds
of Thai Muslims in Bangkok protested outside of the US embassy and called
for a boycott of American goods. They also accused the US of unfairly
condemning Iraq.
As for the political future of Thailand, King Bhumibol Adulyadej (76
years old) is aging and not in the best of health and, as in the case
of most monarchies, the issues of succession are a point of discussion
and gossip. One is reminded of the popular uprising in 1973. Still,
there is a dissatisfied restive young generation that seems to be unsure
of its future. Although the king seems to draw his support from the
religious establishment and the military, and enjoy legitimacy (grandson
of Rama V), the question in the minds of the people seems to be the
fate of the country after the king dies, though Crown Prince Vajiralongkorn
is in line for succession. As a country Thailand will continue, but
the question remains how? That seem to be the question the citizens
of emerging economies customarily have. The booming economy of Thailand,
despite its industrious citizenry, continues to need reassurance and
to improve the standard of living for the poor. The military is active
in Thai politics as it controls the national television through its
power in the government. It also owns a bank, Thai Military Bank (TMB),
and this is indicative of the degree of involvement of the military
in the Thai economy as well.
Meanwhile, civil society organizations, intellectuals and activists
are playing their role in shaping Thai politics and society, especially
in the aftermath of the economic crisis that jolted the country. In
addition, Samaneri Dhammananda, whom we visited in her ashram, is the
first ordained Buddhist nun (ordained in Sri Lanka where Buddhist teaching
started) in Thailand; a challenge to the religious establishment (the
Sangha Supreme Council) has caused dissatisfaction among conservative
Buddhists. The status of women attained in the Buddhist hierarchy seems
to come out of its own dynamism and women's potentiality reached in
pursuing a spiritual path, and not necessarily to have been influenced
by the women's liberation movement of the 1960s.
See Picture #5 ppt page 7
Samaneri Dhammananda, a Thai female monk with the author
It is worth noting that electronic media (radio and TV) are government
controlled while the print media (mainly newspaper) is privatized. As
we will see in the following section, Thailand is a stark contrast in
many ways to Myanmar, another country that we visited.
Myanmar (Burma): some facts and historical background. Myanmar is strategically
located between India and China, two Asian rivals. India, Bangladesh,
China, Thailand, and Laos surround it. Yangoon (Rangoon) is the capital
city and Mandalay is a commercial center. The British succeeded in occupying
Myanmar in 1885 after the monarchy was deposed. The following year,
Britain formally annexed Burma and incorporated it as a province of
its Indian Empire.
Student political leaders at Rangoon University were at the forefront
in mobilizing the people against the British colonial rule. There was
unrest among the peasants, dissatisfaction among factory workers, and
increased political activism among Buddhist monks, intellectuals and
urban professionals. There was a growing social inequality that galvanized
the Burmese people against colonialism. The Buddhist monks played a
unifying role in national, social and political movements. Buddhist
religion and Burmese nationalism converged and played a pivotal role
in overthrowing British colonialism. A nationalist leader, Aung San,
who was assassinated before he saw the independence of his country,
and his Freedom Bloc, played an important role in the liberation of
Burma. Aung San was credited with organizing the students' strike in
1936. That concerted struggle brought independence to Burma on January
4, 1948.
The current economic and political condition in Myanmar. Today
the population of Myanmar is 42 million. The largest ethnic group, Burman,
is 68%, and 89% of the total population are Buddhists. In the political
sphere, the legislative branch is a unicameral (single-house) People's
Assembly with 485 seats. Members are elected by popular vote to serve
four-year terms. In the Socialist Republic of the Union of Myanmar,
the economy is largely state-controlled, mainly in energy, heavy industry,
and the rice trade. For the last thirty years, a military junta (called
tatmadaw) has ruled Myanmar, and has continued to stifle democracy and
violate human rights. Even the resource personnel who briefed us on
the different aspects of the society were very cautious and guarded
in their presentations. Besides using instruments of coercion such as
force and the allocation of scarce resources (jobs, contracts, etc.)
to control the public and draw loyalty, the military further draws its
apparent legitimacy from its close association with the Buddhist leadership.
The media serves as an arm of the government and the generals continue
to be the news and the newsmakers.
See Picture #7 (PPT page 42)
National League for Democracy office in Yangoon
Aung San Suu Kyi, the daughter of Aung San, mentioned above as a nationalist
leader during the national liberation movement, is the leader of the
pro-democracy movement, and is challenging the totalitarian military
regime. The National League for Democracy (NLD), headed by Aung San
Suu Kyi, won 396 of the 485 contested seats (82%) in the parliament
during the 1990 parliamentary election. Despite the decisive victory
by this main opposition party, the military regime nullified the election
and placed Aung San Suu Kyi under house arrest. In 1991 Aung San Suu
Kyi, still under house arrest, was awarded the Nobel Peace Prize. As
the result of international pressure, Aung San Suu Kyi was freed from
19 months of house arrest in May 2002 but members of her party who were
elected to Parliament remain in prison. Human rights groups estimate
that there are up to 1,500 political prisoners in Burma.
The president of All Burma Students Union (ABSC), U Minko Neing, is
still in jail for the 1988 student uprising. The students' demands were
for academic freedom and for education that has relevance in terms of
employment and self-improvement; a legitimate demand for students who
aspire to improve their future and serve their country best. Today,
the social science faculty is still closed. The government took further
action in order to discourage students from gathering. It opened up
colleges in different and distant campuses in the outskirts of Yangoon.
The different ministries, such as education, health, and science and
technology also grant terminal degrees. Universities are short of qualified
personnel and political appointees at the helm historically deny universities
independence and academic freedom.
Civic societies and human rights organizations that normally educate
citizens about their rights and obligations and strive to serve as watchdogs
in protecting civil rights of citizens are deliberately discouraged
or are considered illegal.
The military is also accused by the Shan Human Rights Foundation and
Shan Women's Action Network, of using rape as a weapon of war, as reported
in The Washington Post "The Rape of Burma", July 23, 2002.
After her release from house arrest, Aung San Suu Kyi has not been outspoken
in criticizing government policies. The 56year old leader seems to be
careful to avoid confrontation with the military regime --- maybe a
sensible stratagem for self-preservation in a hostile and unpredictable
political environment. Although she is allowed to freely move within
the country and talk to her supporters, I was told that, as could be
expected, government informers were shadowing her. Association with
foreigners could also be risky. My attempt to speak to her followers
did not succeed although I do believe that she has wide support despite
the government's efforts to marginalize her.
The military rule has remained undemocratic and oppressive. Military
personnel head the different bureaucracies. Some ethnic minority groups,
such as the Shans, are calling for independence (secession) or autonomy.
The government's intransigence could pose a threat to the unity and
national integrity of Myanmar, above all to economic development and
to human rights protection of the citizens.
The relation between Thailand and Myanmar is not cordial at times.
When we visited the two countries, they were on the verge of war and
both countries waged feverish propaganda against each other, though
the élite of both countries have interdependent economic interests.
The border conflict has affected ethnic groups, such as the Karen, who
populate both sides of the boundary. Bangkok Post (June 25, 2002), for
example, alleged that more than 400,000 tribal people are left stateless
as the result of the border conflict. According to the New York-based
Human Rights Watch, Myanmar is the worst violator of international law
and use children in armed conflicts.
The country is under economic sanctions from the west. The United States
blames the military regime of Burma, which it refuses to call Myanmar,
the name given by the current rulers, for refusing to take drastic action
and eliminate the production and trafficking of illicit drugs, especially
opium. We visited the Golden Triangle and House of Opium (a museum on
the Thai side) by the Mekong River where Thailand, Laos, and Myanmar
share a common border. One can witness that the place was once a hub
for opium marketing and trafficking.
See Picture #8 (PPT page 26)
Opium Museum at the Golden Triangle, Thailand
Despite the economic hardship faced by the people because of the sanctions
and the government policies, the people of Myanmar remain hard working
and optimistic, thanks to the Buddhist ethos. A middle class that plays
a pivotal role in spurring economic development has not emerged yet.
The government established what it called a "volunteer beautification"
a cleaning brigade by the army, involved in cleaning and beautifying
the city. Their duties have been taken over by the common people who
have kept Yangoon clean. Given a democratic and visionary leadership,
the people would likely be able to build their country.
See Picture #9 (PPT page 10 top)
Floating market, Myanmar
Meanwhile the military government (State, Peace and Development Council)
has taken the offensive in public relations in an effort to normalize
relations with the US. The Washington Post (May 31, 2002) reported that
the ruling junta has contracted a lobbying firm "with ties to President
Bush to help push for the normalization of relations" between the
two countries, at a cost of more than $450,000 a year.
In spite of the disheartening political and economic conditions in
Myanmar, the Fulbright scholars were able to visit the magnificent Buddhist
temples that grace the landscape. The Buddhist temples, also called
pagoda, are splendid architectural achievements that belong not only
to Myanmar but to the rest of the world as well. They are human achievements
and as such are common goods. As some of them are showing their age
and are dilapidating, UNESCO is urged to be actively involved in the
preservation of these cultural heritages.
See Picture #10 (PPT page 44 top right)
Fulbright-Hayes participants visiting one of the pagodas
See Picture #11 (PPT page 43)
Pagodas gracing the landscape of Myanmar
In the smoldering tropical heat, we traversed the length and breadth
of some of these pagodas barefoot, as is the custom, and were awe-stricken
by their majestic and solemn affect. Some of the pagodas date back to
the 11th century and now hold a wealth of archeological findings and
remain a vast source of research topics for interested scholars. As
our resource person from the University of Hawaii, Prof. Michael A.
Aung-Thwin, an authority on the area, reminded us; there exists a dearth
of research regarding the pagodas of Myanmar. Unlike in most occupied
or colonized societies, most of the Burmese temples were left undestroyed.
Sadly, however, the fabled Mandalay palace, known as the "City
of Gems" was destroyed by fire during WWII. This also reminds us
that centuries of human achievements can easily be destroyed within
days, if not hours. One more reason for peaceful conflict resolution.
Myanmar remains a fascinating country where the pagodas, similar to
the statues of the Buddha, stared at us and "spoke" to us.
See Picture #12 (PPT page 46 bottom right)
The statue of the Buddha, Myanmar |
See Picture #13 (PPT page 38 right)
A fisherman at work, Myanmar |
Concluding remarks: the importance of global literacy to students and
teachers. Finally, a word needs to be said about the importance of international
experience, such as the one I participated in, for faculty and students
alike. It will surely broaden our knowledge and enhance our global understanding.
For a long time, the mission of most institutions of higher education
in the US focused on teaching, research and community services. Another
mission statement is added now in most cases --- international experience,
broadly defined. In an increasingly interdependent world, both internationalized
curriculum and overseas experience is an added value not only for institutions
of higher education but also for interested individuals. Universities
are increasingly requiring of their students not only World Languages and International Studies
but also overseas experience in order to graduate as well-rounded global
citizens. Besides the knowledge gained, marketability for employment
will be enhanced as well. In the case where teachers receive overseas
experience, students will be major beneficiaries of such experience.
An imaginative teacher can qualitatively improve her/his course by adding
international experience to the lecture.
Thanks to the Center for Southeast Asian Studies at the University
of Hawaii at Manoa, and the generous support from the Freeman Foundation
and the Fulbright-Hays Program of the USDOE our team has benefited from
the academic sojourn to Thailand and Myanmar. I hope this knowledge
gained will be reflected in our lectures, subject offerings, and seminars
to colloquies and interested members of the public. Knowledge gained
must be shared.
Overseas travel is not a picnic. Above all, it demands an open mind,
passion, respect, and appreciation for another culture and people who
speak, behave, and look different from us. People must try not to generalize.
An isolated action will not be attributed to the actor alone. People
tend to judge an entire nation by one such incident. For this very reason
university officials must show the utmost prudence when recruiting participants
for overseas programs. Participants are ambassadors of goodwill and
do indeed represent the whole nation and not just a single institution
or person. Mental maturity, the ability to be a team player, and an
open mind are thus required. Participants must respect and accept unfamiliar
culture. One's own culture cannot be seen as the gold standard for all
others.
In general, international experience must be encouraged not only for
teachers but for students as well in this increasingly interdependent
world. International curricula and experience must be the way of the
future. Not the least reward of the experience is that it can allow
us to discover ourselves
See Picture #14 (PPT page 34 left)
Beauty from Burma
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